Black Skinny Dawn Jeans

After sharing all my many, many shirt, now comes the sharing of the multiple pairs of jeans I’ve made while being furloughed (5 in total for those keeping count!)

This is another pair of Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans. I bought this lovely (and really quite stretchy) black denim from Fabric Godmother absolutely ages ago and was going to make Ginger Jeans, but after finding I much preferred the fit of the Dawns I changed my plans.

I made the size 4, as with my first pair. I took the same 2cm off the back seam before putting on the waistband.

Because I was planning for these to be Gingers, I had already bought a zip and luckily you can follow the sewalong for the Ash Jeans on Megan Nielsen’s blog for how to install a jeans fly instead of buttons. Thankfully it’s super easy! And I think I prefer zips to buttons generally when it comes to flies – I find buttons gape no matter how well you’ve installed them.

The other adjustments I made to the fit of this pair was to make the legs more skinny than they straight leg version I made the first time. Also with this denim being stretchy, I knew I’d have to check the fit from scratch. I did start to write down how much I took off the legs – 2cm off inner leg seams, grading to 4cm at the crotch and taking in the outside leg seams too to make sure the seams still went as vertically as possible down my legs. I initially took them in too much at the ankle and couldn’t get them on and off so I had to let them out a bit! Lol! Good job I kept trying them on!

I did a 5cm hem again for this pair to get them to just about sit on my ankles – I particularly like how they look with my Birkenstocks.

I used my first pair to figure out where to put the back pockets – so much easier once you’ve done it once than to keep trying to twist around to see your own arse in the mirror!

I decided to do matching black top-stitching instead of the standard mustard jeans colour as I had a pair of rtw black skinny jeans years ago with matching top-stitching.

I’m not gonna lie, btw, I’m pretty pleased with the fit of these jeans – I’m sure it’s not perfect but it’s better than pretty much every pair of rtw ones I owned in the past!

Maybe if I make some more jeans (though I think for now 6 pairs is enough for my wardrobe!) then I might do a fun top-stitching design on the back pockets.

I’m so glad I had enough time while being furloughed (though the longer it goes on the more I’m worried whether I’ll have a job to get back to at all) to really have the time to make jeans. It always seemed too complicated and involved to want to do during one or two sewing days, so I’d often pick something easier to complete in a shorter space of time – though, of course, jeans don’t take quite as long as I feared!


 

3 More Woven Inari Tees

These three Inari tees are basically the same as the other 3 I already posted – but I felt like posting 6 tops in one post would be A LOT so I split them. They’re all size 6 with 6.5cm added to the length.

This first one is made from leftover cotton lawn from this robe I made (which I sadly haven’t worn much). It has flecks of blues and yellows in and I found (during our mini heatwave) that it nicely matches my Portobello trousers.

This is one of my favourite fabrics ever, which I made into a Nancy dress which I never wear because I don’t really wear any dresses any more (and yet I’ve made thousands!). I can’t remember where the fabric was from as I must have bought it ages ago, but I’m glad I kept the remnant for so long as I really like it made up into this tee.

There was even enough fabric to make sure all the people were the right way up!

The last Inari I made was made from the leftover cotton from this Laurel dress (which I actually do wear occasionally).

I did have to cut the back piece for this one in two pieces, adding seam allowance and stitching the two halves together before constructing it as normal.

I don’t really have much to say about these tees as I’ve made the Inari so many times!
 

Black Crepe Evelyn Trousers

A while ago (I can’t remember when) I backed Sugardale’s kickstarter campaign to launch her first 3 patterns. I bought the Evelyn Trousers and Dungarees, especially liking the trouser version. I finally got around to making the pattern up during lockdown, using this black crepe from (I think) Sewisfaction. It was definitely the wrong fabric choice for this pattern – it would be much better with something with more structure.

I made the size 2, based on my waist and hip measurements (both measurements matched the size 2). I did have to take them in around the whole crotch seam, especially on the back, where I always get pooling.

The design detail about the Evelyns I really like is that the zip is hidden in one of the pockets. The instructions were really good for getting this right, too.

I was thinking of giving this pattern another go as I do like the pleats and the turn-ups (which I left off this version because the fabric is too drapey). I did see a little while ago that Trista, the designer behind Sugardale, posted on Instagram about the Black Lives Matter and it was not good. She got a lot of flack then posted an apology. I just looked her up and found a statement on her website to say she is stepping away from the sewing community and she has deleted her instagram and website. Sadly I don’t, therefore, feel right about making this pattern again. (I had already cut the trousers out before this all happened). I want to use my (tiny) voice here and on Instagram to highlight pattern companies where I can stand behind their ethos. And where, like me, we have a lot to learn I think the key thing is to listen and educate ourselves and not run away from difficult conversations that question our privilege.

I made these trousers to kind of replace this Simplicity pair I made a while ago where I forgot to pre-wash the fabric and they shrunk on the first wash. They have also faded quite badly, and they are the smart trousers I wear for playing in the brass band (though it’s a moot issue at the moment!). I bought the fabric a while ago to make replacement smart trousers so I’m glad I do have some new smart trousers if I ever get back to playing in a group.

I did sew the button on too tight. So these are reeeeeaaaaallly snug on my waist! I just need to move the button to slightly loosen the fit on the waist. Other than that the fit is good.

I do love how deep the pockets are!

What are your favourite pattern companies which you really stand behind supporting? I have pledged to only buy new patterns which are size inclusive (and I think the only pattern I’ve bought since is the Arden Pants by Helen’s Closet). I’m also going to only buy patterns from companies who have spoken out in support of Black Lives Matter.

 

 

3 Woven Inari Tees

Since I’ve had more time for sewing, I’ve gone through my stash and made Inari tees from all of the scraps that were large enough. Some smaller scraps have become pocket linings too so my stash is pleasantly depleted at the moment (good excuse to buy some more fabric!)

All of these tees are the size 6 and with the 6.5cm extended length from the cropped version which I did first for the white version I made a little while ago. These three were made from leftovers from shirts I’ve made – this black striped one is made from the leftover fabric from this Archer shirt which was from Fabric Godmother.

I cut the cuffs with the striped going the other way to the rest of the tee and I’m so pleased I did!

This next tee is made from the leftovers from one of my Kalle shirts (that I made at the beginning of lockdown). This fabric is still really difficult to photograph to make it come out correctly in photographs!

I cut the back out in 2 pieces (adding the 1cm seam allowance) instead of on the fold as I didn’t have enough fabric left to cut it on the fold.

Since I made 2 Archers in the black and the pink linen/cotton, I also made 2 Inaris from the leftovers!

This one might be my favourite of these 3 as I really like the shade of pink. I always forget how much I enjoy wearing pink (and how I think it lifts my complexion) until I wear it, then I go ‘oh yeah!’

The Inari is definitely my go-to woven tee pattern now (not that I need any more!) Do you have a fav tee pattern?

 

 

Hudson Sweatpants

How did I wait so long to make Hudson pants?!?!

When the UK went into lockdown at the end of March I kinda realised I didn’t have a huge amount of comfortable, lounging-around-the-house-clothes. Enter the Hudson Pants! I think this might be my first True Bias pattern and I really like it, though I did find the pdf pattern difficult to assemble.

I made the size 4, based on my hip measurement and I’m pretty pleased with the fit. I was pretty worried they were going to end up really short by looking at the pattern, but of course there’s the cuff and the waistband to take into account. Luckily they worked out fine!

I did have to make a tiny fitting tweak as I was going, by reducing the seam allowance to 0.5cm on the legs as they were way to tight! If I made these again I might even go up a size – and I do kinda feel like I need 20 pairs of these, in every colour!


Both of these sweatshirtings are from New Craft House and they are both really nice quality. They shed like a bitch while I was cutting and sewing them, but I’ve worn both pairs quite a bit and no pilling yet in sight! The cord was from Minerva Crafts. If you know anywhere that sells nice quality sweatshirtings, please let me know as I do kinda want to make more of these!

Having said I might go up a size next time, I actually do like the fit of these as they are just snug enough to not look like I’m wearing sweatpants that aren’t mine. But they’re loose enough to still be comfortable.

The grey pair does give me slight camel-toe vibes!😂 Any one have any ideas how to fix this? I assume it means I need a little more room in the rise? So actually going up a size might work (OMG, I’ve gone back and forth on this like 3 times in this one blog post!).

Since I’ve been spending the vast majority of my furlough sitting at my sewing machine, I can confirm that while I love jeans, these are sooooooo much more comfortable if you’re sitting all day!

I haven’t actually worn these out of the house yet, but I think they are definitely nice enough to wear out of the house – particularly with my Uniqlo/ Merchant and Mills tees which I’d kind of forgotten about!

So am I the last person to make the Hudson pants? I think I’m definitely the last person who hasn’t yet made the Ogden Cami, the other most popular of True Bias’s patterns! I’m not sure whether I thought sweatpants would suit me, but I’m so glad I made them – even if I do just wear them for sewing in, comfort is king!