Tag Archives: Costume

The Refashioners 2018: Miss Fisher Costume

If you’ve read my blog before you may know how much I love the show Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries in part at least because of the costumes. So when Portia announced this year’s Refashioners theme was ‘inspired by’, I couldn’t resist making a costume from Miss Fisher. I really wanted to make her amazing silk robe, but I didn’t think my embroidery skills would be up to it (I’ve done embroidery twice and both times it’s been a little rudimentary).

(image source)

So having ruled out the robe, I then decided to make her signature trench coat and matching hat. I also made trousers, a blouse and a camisole to go under the coat! Fair warning this is a long post with lots of photos! Feel free to skip to the end to look at the finished look!

Here are the garments I started with (and how much I paid for each one):

Large trench coat

Jersey maxi dress

Polyester petticoat skirt

Polyester blouse – I wanted to get a dress to make the blouse, but couldn’t find anything suitable so I had to settle for this blouse.


First I dyed the dress navy blue – it was mostly viscose so the normal Dylon hand dye took quite well and it didn’t matter that it was beige.

I then sewed 2 parallel lines from the hem upwards, with the right sides together, to roughly where my crotch was when I held the dress up with the hem on the ground. I then cut between the 2 lines and voila, I had trouser legs! I then tried them on, sewed a better bum curve. I then sewed a large hem channel at the top and threaded some elastic through  – I know elasticated waisted trousers are not super accurate for Miss Fisher, but these will become my ‘lounging around the house’ trousers, so at least they’ll get some more wear!


Again, I started by dying the skirt – I put it (and the blouse) in the same dye as the dress, knowing that because they were both synthetic that the dye might not take as well, but it didn’t take at all! Luckily Instagram came to my rescue and a couple of people told me about Rit Dyemore Synthetic dye. I ordered this in navy blue (to match the trousers) but this was as dark as it went.

First I cut off the elastic, and saved it in my stash to use on another project in the future. I turned the skirt upside down, so the lace on the hem was at the top. I then pinned and sewed new side seams and trimmed off the extra fabric, to use as the straps. I cut 2 strips 5cm wide, then sewed them with a 1.5cm seam allowance so they ended up 1cm wide.

I then stitched the straps on the back, put the top on and pinned the straps where they needed to sit on the front and stitched them in place.

I made the camisole because often in Miss Fisher you can see through her very thin blouses that she is wearing one underneath – I guess it was also underwear in the 20s – but my blouse was too thick to see it so I didn’t really need it, but you live and learn!


After dying the blouse and petticoat supposedly navy blue they looked like this:

Then after the synthetic dye – which involved cooking the whole lot for over an hour – it looked like this, which was an improvement, but sadly not the colour I was after. The outfit I was basing it on was black, but I was going for navy but then it was this light grey-ish blue.

I unpicked most of the blouse – which took a while because it was all overlocked! I unpicked the collar and placket, and then sewed a new centre front seam to get rid of the extra fabric from the placket. I then used the scout tee as the basis for the new shape of the back and front, but I made the front a v-neck. I then sewed the sleeves back in, and used the yoke which I’d removed from the back to make a facing, understitching it to try to make it lie on the inside.

This is the blouse I was basing mine on so I decided to make the pattern on the fabric myself, since I didn’t find a garment with the right kind of geometric pattern on.  I remembered seeing this blog post on Tilly’s blog by the lovely Zeena Shah so I bought some dylon fabric paint. And I thought an empty spool of thread would be the perfect thing to approximate the circles on the original blouse.

Again, because the fabric was so synthetic, the paint didn’t take as brightly white as it would have if it was a natural fibre, but I think the effect was okay.

I used the 2 halves of the collar as the scarves down the sides of the blouse, and although it’s the wrong colour, I think it looks okay as a copy.

I’m pretty proud of the fact that this tiny pile of scraps is all I had left from the above 3 garments!


I initially thought I was going to be able to make up a hat by myself, but after doing a bit of research, I discovered someone else had also made the Miss Fisher hat and coat and she used the Sybil pattern by Elsewhen Millinery so I downloaded it and am so glad I did!

(image source)

There is a lot of topstitching on her hat – and that was definitely the part that took the longest! That and working out if I had enough fabric to squeeze the hat pieces onto. I used every scrap I had – the fabric I cut off the hem of the coat, both lining and main fabric, and the big flap from the back of the original coat. Apart from the buttons on the coat, and the elastic in the trousers, the only other new thing I used was interfacing for the hat. All of the main pieces are interfaced and one side of the brim is.

I found my tailor’s ham had an additional use by allowing me to pin the lining to the outer of the hat. The lining overhangs a little, which it’s supposed to.

To stiffen the brim a little – I thought it would be too floppy with nothing, but I didn’t want it to be really stiff – I remembered I had this wire stuff from when I made my Doc Brown costume. It was perfect!

I put 2 rows in and sewed another couple of lines of topstitching, each with a 1cm seam allowance. I can definitely recommend this pattern if you want to make a 20s style hat. I did make a change to the shape of the brim and made it a bit wider at the back, though it was still a little narrower at the back than the front.


The coat was, obviously, the main task for my refashioners project. First I unpicked everything!

I even unpicked the welts from the pockets.

I also unpicked the collar, which it turned out was unneccessary – Miss Fisher’s coat doesn’t have a collar stand, but I thought I would have to resize the original collar since I had resized the rest of the coat so much, but weirdly the collar fitted in its original size!

Miss Fisher’s coat has big patch pockets, so I placed some fabric behind the holes from the welt pockets to try to repair the holes – knowing the holes themselves would be covered with the patch pockets.

This is what it looked like from the front when I’d finished the repair.

I then made new pockets from a piece of the coat which I no longer needed – I can’t remember what it originally was, though.

I used the original welt from the pockets as the flap on the top of the new pockets – handy!

The adjustments I made to the body of the coat were:

  • resewed the back seam, removing the excess fabric from the original vent, with an extra 2cm taken out.
  • Stitched the raglan sleeves back in, with an extra 2cm seam allowance at the front and the back.
  • Stitched the underarm and side seam, as one, with an extra 2cm seam allowance, then stitched again with another extra 2.5cm.
  • I did all of this with the lining too, though it had set-in sleeves instead of raglan sleeves.
  • I cut 7cm off each of the coat fronts and off the facings, and then stitched the facings back on. I ended up cutting off all the original button holes, which was handy!
  • I then reattached the collar.
  • I then sewed the lining back in, fudging it where it didn’t quite fit any more – It miraculously did fit quite well, it was just at the front where I had changed it from double breasted to single breasted, where it needed some tweaking.
  • I cut 23cm off the length of the coat, off the shell and the lining, then bagged it out.
  • I cut 8cm off the sleeves and used the great Grainline method for attaching sleeve linings and shells.
  • I also used the original shoulder tabs as the tabs on the cuffs of the sleeves.

The final things was to make new button holes and sew on the new buttons, which I got from my local sewing shop.

This is all I had left from the coat and hat refashion. There is a bit more than I thought, but it’s mostly thin strips which I shaved off each seam, and some bits left over from the larger pieces after cutting out the hat. Not bad, though, I don’t think!

Phew! If you’ve read all of that, you deserve a medal. If you’ve skipped ahead to just look at the photos, I don’t blame you!

I took the blouse off so you could see the camisole underneath, but it looks so, so wrinkled – sorry! It was actually sticking to me, it’s so synthetic, so it may not be a top that gets much wear when it’s hot, but it would be good for layering when it’s a bit chilly.

I especially like the back view – it’s a distinctive silhouette and I think I look quite like her! (Obviously when you can see my face, the illusion is less complete!)

I couldn’t not have an outtake from all the ‘walking towards the camera’ shots. You. Are. Welcome!

I really didn’t mean to be posting this so close to the deadline, but I’m not surprised! Everything always takes me longer than I think it will.

Did you do a refashioners project?



Hundred Years Wardrobe: 1970s

Over the Summer I was invited to a 70s party with the brass band that I play in – and it was the perfect opportunity to make my first Hundred Years Wardrobe make. I had the idea for this project at the beginning of the year, but thought I wouldn’t have time to make anything so shelved it until I had the chance to make a 70s outfit. I wrote a post about 70s fashion quite a while ago so I knew there were loads of trends to choose from – hippy, disco, punk, flares being obligatory. I did what I usually do when faced with something like this – went to Pinterest and searched for some iconic 70s figures to get some inspiration. I was pretty close to doing a Bowie look (but which one?!) but then I happened upon this amazing Zandra Rhodes outfit worn by Freddie Mercury and my mind was made up – I’ve always loved queen and thought what better outfit than this!

This was made by Zandra Rhodes and I thought it looked relatively simple to make – I would just have to master pleats!

I started with this really big, thick piece of cardboard I got from work and thought it would work as a pleating board, but in fact it was too thick.

Waaaay too thick!

Instead, I used a piece of thick paper/thin card I already had and it worked much better. For a pleating board, you need something thin enough that the pleats will be sharp. I used this tutorial on YouTube, but I didn’t back it with fabric – which I would definitely recommend if you’re going to try pleating a lot of fabric as my board kept expanding when I put the fabric in. But I just about managed it.

Once I’d made the board, I tested it and it seemed to work – and the fabric seemed to hold the pleats once ironed. The fabric, which was actually much thicker than would have been ideal, was a viscose-something mix (I can’t actually remember) which I bought in my local fabric shop. It was super wide and the ladies assured me that it would hold pleats, which was the main characteristic I was interested in.

I bought 4 metres of the fabric and used about 1m for the trousers, which I didn’t really photograph, either while making them or while taking the final photos. I used the Gertie Cigarette Pants pattern from her book Gertie Sews Vintage Casual as a basis, adding triangles to each side of the leg to make the flares. This was the same pattern I used for my Dressmaker’s Ball dress and I made some tweaks here and there, but it was a good job the fabric has quite a bit of stretch as it made them a bit more forgiving fit-wise and more comfortable to wear!

With the rest of the fabric, which was luckily really wide, I cut it in half parallel to the selvage to make about 5.5m of fabric which needed to be pleated! I got into a rhythm after a while and managed to pleat it all over the course of 2 evenings – of course I left making this outfit until really late so I was in a hurry and working on it every spare hour I could find.

I used some paperclips to try to hold some of the pleats in place as I moved on further down the fabric as I was worried the weight of the fabric would mean the pleats would drop out.

With the majority of the fabric pleated, I used every other little scrap of fabric to make the yoke pieces. But first i cut them out of calico, to be the under-layer which would hold most of the weight of the pleated fabric – and it was heavy! If I made this again I would definitely use something lighter!

Here are the front york and 2 back york pieces sewn together at the shoulders – a lot of this was guess-work, and holding pieces of paper up to myself to figure out how big to make them, but I did use the facing from the Inari tee and dress as a basis for the length and shape of the neckline.

I’m pretty sure the original Zandra Rhodes outfit only had one seam in the pleated fabric, probably at the back, but I had to have 2 so I had one at the front and one at the back, so I stitched the front seam together before I started pinning it to the calico support structure.

I then pinned all of the pleated fabric onto the calico under yoke. In the original outfit, I think it looks like there was more fabric in the middle of the front and then it’s a tiny bit more spread out as you move up Freddie’s body and over the shoulders, but I didn’t have anywhere near enough fabric to make it look exactly like the original – I would love to know how much fabric is in the original, I think it could easily be twice as much as I had.

After sewing on the pleat to the calico, I then cut the front parts for the yoke to cover all the stitching and everything, from the main fabric. I added a seam allowance so I would be able to fold the edges in, like a patch pocket. I also overlocked the edges as the fabric frayed like crazy!

After lots and lots of thinking about how to construct the top – mostly when lying in bed trying to sleep –  this was the only way I could come up with to make it. I figured it didn’t matter what it looked like on the inside as the outfit was for one party, but I would love to have a look at the original and see how it was constructed.

When pinning the front part on, I pinned the necklines together (which were the same size as I didn’t add seam allowance there), then worked from the middle out towards the shoulders, to try to make sure it was straight compared to the layer underneath.

At this point, I was pretty excited with how it was looking – and to be honest pretty pleased with how it was looking.

It seems that it was at this point that I stopped taking photos – I was stitching the top yokes on in the afternoon of the day of the party so I assume I was so rushing to finish that I didn’t document the rest of the process, but the back was pretty much the same as the front, which looked like this when it was all finished.

I then added a facing around the whole neckline, again using the Inari pattern as the basis. Then I added some eyelets to the back, to be able to lace it up (which facilitates being able to get in and out of it.

And now after all that writing and the in progress photos, I couldn’t resist trying to recreate the Freddie photos at the top of the post.

You can see in this photo, below, how there wasn’t anywhere near as much fabric in my version as in the original, but you get the idea and it was good enough for a one-off party.

Hopefully with my next Hundred Years Wardrobe make I won’t be in so much of a hurry (though who am I kidding, I love working last-minute to a crazy deadline!) so I’ll maybe have more than one post to write, about some new techniques I’ve discovered or some more inspiration images. But at least I’ve got the ball rolling!

Also I’m going to see Bohemian Rhapsody, the Freddie Mercury biopic, for my birthday in a couple of weeks. Would it be too much to wear this outfit to the cinema?! 😉



The Hundred Years Wardrobe Project

Since I’ve been sewing for a while I’ve decided to try to challenge myself to expand my skills and to sew garments and with fabrics that are outside of my comfort zone. And so was born my idea for the Hundred Years Wardrobe Project.

I’m going to sew one thing from each decade of the 20th Century. There is no time limit for this as I want it to be a fun exercise and deadlines are often where stress lies for me.

I’m going to also try to do some posts about my research for each decade and share some of my inspiration. A while ago I did write some posts about fashion history but I ran out of steam with them – hopefully with a garment to relate the history to I will have more to say and more to share. Some of the makes will be inspired by fashion and some will be from films – either made at the time or set in the past.

I would love it if anyone else wants to join in with this project – I’m calling it a project rather than a challenge as there is no deadline and there will be no prizes, just the pride in having made something cool!

Spoiler alert: I already have my first make made and ready to blog soon!

Make It: Back to the Future Doc Brown Costume

Over the bank holiday I went to a Back To The Future Party for my friend’s 30th birthday and it was brilliant! It’s a pretty genius theme as she was born in 1985 (the year of the first film) and turns 30 in 2015 (the year they go to in the future in the second film). You’ve got lots of eras and films to choose from and there were 80s people, 50s people, 2015 ‘future’ people and wild west people (from the 3rd film). It was brilliant.

Here is me and my friend, Chloe, recreating the iconic poster:

BTTF posterFinished 3I’m obviously wearing the wrong Doc costume, but you get the idea!

Can we just take a minute to appreciate the effort Chloe’s family put into the party? Her sister made the delorean:

Delorean(That’s my friend James, a fellow/rival Doc sitting in the car)

And her dad made their Summer house look like the Court House by making a facade for it, with the clock stopped at the right time and everything!

Summer House as Court House
There were also posters up everywhere, including ‘save the clock tower’ ones and the fax firing Marty from the second film. And themed cake toppers (I obviously had to have this one)! There was equal parts icing and cake, it was glorious!

Cupecake-1So after doing some googling and re-watching the first film, I decided to go as Doc from the 50s, when Marty first knocks on Doc’s door after tracking him down in the 50s, having been accidentally sent back in time.

Doc BrownI bought a pink shirt and white tie from my local charity shop – I was pretty lucky they had one of each in stock! Literally 10 minutes from my house, and it was under £5 for the 2 things! I already had some black trousers that I could wear, so the main issue was Doc’s actually quite amazing silver crocodile skin smoking jacket. Not sure if smoking jacket is the right term? Maybe it’s a dressing gown and men wore them over their clothes in the 50s? Any ideas?

Having scoured a few charity shops and ebay, I discovered it would be basically impossible to get one in time and not for, like £100. So I decided to make one. I say ‘make’ one – what I mean is buy a cheap dressing gown and make it look as much like his as possible. So I went to Primark – I know they’re evil, but I couldn’t afford to get a really expensive dressing gown to then potentially ruin it…..:(

So this was what they had:
Dressing-Gown-2 Dressing-Gown-3 Dressing-Gown-4As you can see, it was only £8. Obviously I had to make it silver. I decided early on I would settle for grey as the range of fabric dyes out there is fairly limited, and I didn’t fancy trying to mix one myself! I bought Dylon’s pewter grey hand dye. This was my first time using a hand dye – I’d used one of the machine ones when I refashioned my peter pan collar dress. I found it quite easy, once I’d worked out the best receptacle to use would be the sink – I don’t own a bowl or bucket big enough for the amount of water needed. Also our silk is stainless steel, so staining was minimised!

Here’s the dye all swirling around:Dressing-Gown-5

And here’s the dressing gown in the dye: Dressing-Gown-6

I left it for the full amount of time the packet recommended, which in retrospect was maybe a little long, but I was worried that there was too much fabric, so the shade would be light. Interestingly it didn’t dye evenly – there was a pattern in the weaving of the fabric and evidently some of the threads are more synthetic than others as they stayed white!

If you follow me on instagram, you’ll have seen this photo before, but I wanted to share it here too. This is what happens when you get a hole in your rubber gloves when hand-dyeing! It looks like a gross bruise and a broken finger, doesn’t it?!


This was the colour the dressing gown came out as once dry – it looks kind of silver, right? Not quite the same as Doc’s, but close enough for jazz, as they say.


My next job was to give the gown it’s black trims. I saw it had black on the collar, cuffs, and pockets in the film, so that’s what I did. I only took photos of the collar as the principle was the same for all the bits. The fabric is the left overs from my Black Victoria Blazer. The collar was 157cm on the gown, but I didn’t have a piece long enough for that, so I cut 2 pieces of 81cm each, giving me a 1cm seam allowance and some extra on the ends to tuck under to make it all neat and enclosed. The collar on the gown was 4.5cm wide, so I cut my strips 8.5cm wide, to give me 2cm on each side to turn under. I kind of thought of it as like giant bias binding, but without the centre fold, if that makes sense?

I lined up the seam on my collar with the seam on the original collar:

Dressing-Gown-7Then just topstitched both sides, using a zipper foot on the side with the piping and a normal foot on the edge side.

Dressing-Gown-9I didn’t realise I took, like, no pictures of the rest of the sewing – I think it’s because I was rushing to get it done the day before the party! One thing I forgot on the list before was that I made a new waist tie for the gown – I did dye the original one grey, but Doc’s is black. This was pretty easy. I cut 1 piece of fabric 132cm long, which was slightly shorter than the tie that came with it, but that was the maximum length I could get from my fabric. It was 12cm wide so I folded it in half lengthwise and sewed it with a 1.5cm seam allowance, then turned it through so the seam was on the inside. I then tucked in the ends and topstitched 1.5cm from the edge all the way around.

The top pocket it just a piece of fabric topstitched on – i didn’t write down the dimensions, but I kind of placed a rectangle where I wanted it and trimmed it down when it was a bit too long. The other pockets I hand-sewed on, otherwise I would have had to sew the pockets shut and I needed them to be functional to keep my drawing of the flux capacitor in. I cut 2 pieces of fabric 16cm x 6cm as the part I wanted to cover was 13cm x 3cm – this gave me 1.5cm on each edge to turn under. I tucked in the edges the best I could and then handstitched it into place.

The final bit was the cuffs. These turned out to be a bit fiddly as I measured the circumference of the cuffs but then ended up with rings that were too wide, so I had to adjust it as I went along. I measured them as 37cm wide, so cut 2 pieces of 40cm x 10cm. The 10cm width was based on measuring how far up the sleeve I wanted the black to go and seeing it was about 6cm, then I had 2cm on each side to turn under. I also folded up the original hem of the sleeves by 2.5cm as Doc’s shirt sleeves stick out slightly past the end of his dressing gown sleeves. Once I’d pinned it all, I topstitched with a 1.5cm seam allowance around the top and bottom edge of the black strip.

This is what it looked like in the end:

Dressing-Gown-10I’m pretty pleased with how it turned out – it didn’t look exactly like it, but it was a lot closer than when I started! Also, I’ve totally adopted this as my actual dressing gown and it’s ace!

The main thing to make with this costume, though, was the mind-reading machine Doc is wearing on his head. It’s the crowning glory – literally! (sorrynotsorry!) There are some tutorials online to make this out of actual metal and how to make it have actual lights that actually light up. I have 2 weeks to make this, however – despite the fact that the party was announced in January. I work to deadlines, what can I say?

Finished 1(I’d borrowed my friend’s wig in this picture – I should have bought one for myself!)

Having gone for a recce of my local poundland and cheap shops (you know, the ones that sell tupperware and pots and pans and diy stuff?), I realised it was definitely doable to make the helmet and to not break the bank. I had a think for a day and then went back to buy ALL THE THINGS!

Hat-1I had an old bike helmet, which I thought would work well as the base for the helmet – and it has the straps for under the chin already built in! I bought: 2 pool noodles (floating aids for swimming pools), though I only needed one in the end; some washing up sponges, 30 red pencils; red and green strimmer line (no idea what that is); 2 rolls of aluminium foil tape (I didn’t know this was a thing until I saw it in a shop!); some plastic plant label sticks, for plants; and some white plastic things called screw cup and cover nos 6 & 8 white.

I counted how many bits stick out of the helmet and I came up with 13 – 8 around the bottom, 4 half way at each ‘corner’ (front, back, left and right) and one right at the top, in the middle. Each sticky out bit needed 2 circles, one long and one short. I cut the pool noodle into lengths of 1 inch and 2 inches. I realised that they were too wide and had too big a hole though the centre, so I cut 4cm out of each circle and closed the gap with sellotape. I ended up with things that looked like this (13 of each size):

Hat-2Then I had to make them look metal. I used the aluminium tape and first did the ends of the 2inch length, snipping the bits that overhung the end to make sure they folded down nicely. I also cut where the hole was and folded the excess into the hole through the middle.

Hat-3I then covered the sides, which for the 2inch lengths was super easy as this was the exact width of the tape.

Hat-4The 2 inch length, I just covered one end with the aluminium tape as I wasn’t sure how I was going to attach them to the helmet, so I didn’t want to waste time covering things that didn’t need to be covered. But that’s exactly what I did! I decided the easiest way to get the pencils to stay in the short lengths was to use the off cuts of the sponge which I’d cut out to make the circles smaller to stuff the hole, holding the pencil in place.

Hat-5I cut down the pencils to 10.5cm, which was pretty much a guess based on holding the pieces together and seeing what looked about right! I made sure to use the part with the rubber on, with the rubber at the ‘top’.

Hat-10I then decided to recover the bottoms of the short lengths, to cover the hole and make sure the pencils weren’t going to fall through – I think this was the only bit where I essentially did something twice!

Hat-6This was the stuff I used for the ‘light’ part of the things (I don’t know what to call them apart from things – sorry if this is confusing!).

Hat-9I cut a little piece of the sponge for each of the 13 lights, measuring them against the hole through the middle of the noodle. I then scooped out some of the sponge in the middle of each one. I then slotted each 2 inch noodle onto the 1 inch noodle and pencil, then stuck a yellow drawing pin through the piece of sponge (so the pin sits in the bit I’d scooped out), and then stuck the pin into the rubber on the end of the pencil. I found that the 2 inch noodle stayed where it was because of the green bit on the sponge being less soft that the yellow bit – they kind of wedged into place. I didn’t take a picture at this stage unfortunately.

Hat-7 The next thing to do was to make the cross shaped wire that goes around each light. I used the green strimmer wire and cut a length – I didn’t write down what length – and joined it into a ring with sellotape. It took a bit of trial and error to get the right size. I then pre-bent the wire like so:

Hat-11And used netting staples…..

Hat-13Hat-12……and pushed them into the top of the sponge to attach the wire in the right shape. I tested this on a trial noodle to make sure it wasn’t just going to wreck the whole thing! I tried to make all the bits as light as possible, so it would all hold up and hold it’s own weight, but I couldn’t think of/ find anything else to do this job but the metal netting staples.

Here is the whole ‘thing’ assembled:  Hat-14 Hat-15You can’t see in these pictures, but I used the off cuts of noodle to fill around the pencil in the underneath of the 2inch lengths, to stop them wobbling around so much.

The next thing to do was to attach the ‘thing’s to the helmet. I had an old greaseproof paper box, which turned out to be perfect to make the struts around the helmet which the ‘things’ are attached to. I covered the cardboard in the same aluminium tape, and it looked pretty good if I say so myself!


I used little strips of the tape to attach the ‘things’ to the frame – you can see here there are strips each side of the pencil. I then covered any green that was left visible with little squares of tape – that took quite a long time, I can tell you! I could have maybe used wider strips of tape, then there wouldn’t have been so much visible green. Hindsight’s 20:20 as they say!


The last thing to do was to make the struts that go in between the ‘things’. I have to confess here that I ran out of time and didn’t do as many struts as are on the original helmet in the film. There are other blogs which explain the complicated pattern and shapes that go into this helmet. I decided to just to around the edge and then make 2 triangles, at the front and the back, to make it look vaguely right.

This is where the plant labels and screw cap and covers come in.
Luckily the plant labels were easy to cut with scissors so where I had a gap than was narrower than they were long, it was easy to shorten them. I laid one label on the sticky side of the aluminium tape, and then laid a screw cap and cover next to it, with the hole side sticking up.

Hat-19I then put another label alongside the first, covering the (i guess) cover side of the screw cap and cover like this:

Hat-20I then folded the tape over, snipping at either end of the labels – this gave me the ends to stick the strut on with. I then used another piece of tape over the top, cutting a hole for the loop, to stick it on more securely. The loops are for wire to go through. I used the red strimmer wire to make it look like the lights were wired in and stuff. At this point, it was midnight the night before the party and I had to be on a coach at 9am the next morning, so I’m afraid I didn’t take any pictures!

But here is the finished costume, complete with the cut on his head where he fell and then had the idea for the flux capacitor, and the drawing he made of the flux capacitor which he shows Marty when he’s trying to convince Doc he really is from the future.

Finished 2

I really enjoyed making this costume, and it was great that everyone went to loads of effort for the party. I love costume parties!

p.s. Isn’t Back to the Future one of the best films? I hadn’t watched it in a while and then had to watch it for ‘research’ and I’d forgotten the beautiful love between Marty and Doc! It’s just a lovely friendship. I’m not saying the film couldn’t have done with more female characters, but I think Doc is my favourite anyway. I just need to work on making my eyes look really bulgey….